# gst: to find a separation between plunging and spilling wave breakers

<< While understanding breaking waves is crucial for the development of parametrizations used in ocean wave modeling for both deep and shallow water, the complete process of wave breaking is not well understood. Here (AA) present direct numerical simulations of two-dimensional solitary waves that shoal and break on a uniform beach in shallow water, with the presence of storm surge represented by an inshore region. >>️

They << classify wave breaker types and find a separation between plunging and spilling breakers when scaled by breaking amplitude and depth. (AA) compare energy dissipation during the breaking process with results from the literature without storm surge.  >>️

They << conclude that a previously developed shallow-water inertial dissipation model for wave breaking on a uniform slope can be extended to this storm surge environment with good data collapse, and further discuss possibilities for a general parametrization of wave breaking valid across different depth regimes. >>️

Hunter Boswell, Guirong Yan, Wouter Mostert. Characterizing energy dissipation of shallow-water wave breaking in a storm surge. Phys. Rev. Fluids 8, 054801. May 5, 2023. 

https://journals.aps.org/prfluids/abstract/10.1103/PhysRevFluids.8.054801

Also: waves, soliton, drop, in https://www.inkgmr.net/kwrds.html

Keywords: gst, waves, soliton, drop